I recently tasted with the Director of Joseph Drouhin, Frederic Drouhin. It was a slightly rainy day in San Francisco which has been the norm for the last few weeks. We meet briefly and had a short talk about the history and the future of this famous Burgundy estate, which I am sure many of you have tried atleast once, hopefully. They are based in Beaune and were founded in 1880, after hundreds of years in the hands of the King of France and assorted Duke’s. An amazingly long history, almost as long as the collective distance of the many cellars that lie just meters below the town of Beaune.
The tasting was delightful, offering the reds before the whites as many producers organize their tastings from this region. We tasted five reds, my favorite lying in their Gevrey-Chambertin 06′, which is a blend of village vineyards and some of their 1er cru vineyards – a little rustic with some darker berried fruits and the fullest wine of the line-up. The other wines listed lightest to fuller, also showing quality and concentration: Santenay 07′, Chorey-les-Beaune 06′, Nuits-St-Georges 07′ and the Chambolle-Musigny 06′.

Domaine de Vaudon (Sorry for the blurry)
We proceeded to the white wines, eight in total and this was the most impressive portion of the tasting. All the wines are delicious, but they all have their distinct styles and structure. We stared with the Macon-Villages 08′, Saint Veran 08′ and the Chablis 07′, which were all open and oppulent in their youth. We then tasted his Chablis “Domaine de Vaudon”, which is a village AOC, but considered to be a higher lieu-dit vineyard by those who are familiar with this vineyard named after the 18th century watermill. The wine was filled with a great flinty quality and mineral, a small amount of citrus and tropical pineapple fruit – a delicious wine which will shine with food, especially oysters:) Moving along we next had the “Vaudesir” and “Les Clos” Grand Cru vineyards which stand to their elevated status. Both wines were fuller and richer than the previous (obviously) they have both seen oak and the “Les Clos” is from parcels which have not been plagued with disease in any recent history. We finished our afternoon tasting with the Puligny-Montrachet 07′, full yet not profound and ofcourse one of the flagship wines the Beaune “Clos des Mouches” Blanc 06′. The wine comes from a ripe vintage and if full bodied and rich, lots of fruit and mineral tones, hints of honey and caramel, but still not ready to drink in its prime.
Frederick wanted to share a story about how the “Clos des Mouches” Blanc came to be, and I couldn’t down the oppurtunity to learn, being a fan of the location. Frederic’s grandfather was preparing to plant this vineyard, but before he picked up a book on traditional planting techniques and practices of Burgundy – research is always good. Since this vineyard was classically planted to Pinot Noir, he was learning about some of the best ways to successfully achieve these goals. In reading he learned that it was common technique to plant some Chardonnay along with the Pinot Noir, so he proceeded with his task. A few years down the line a vintage offered a difficult situation – the Pinot Noir was ripe and harvested, but the Chardonnay was not ready and needed to hang longer and longer and longer. It came to a point were the red was already fermented and resting in cellar while they were picking the Chardonnay, not allowing the natural blending to take place. He wrote this wine off as house wine and bottled the two barrels produced. Down the road he began to consume this wine at home and soon realized that this wine was good, even amazing. From that point he decided to remove some of the Pinot Noir and replant Chardonnay and begin bottling this amazing vineyard!!!
It always amazes me how much we learn everyday. Hope you enjoyed this little story.

Must we say more?? The 2006 Harlan was also stunning for those that are lucky enough to taste in its youth. By Mark Bright



















